The Mountain

From Summit Post:

Ama Dablam is known as one of the most impressive mountains in the world, not for it’s altitude, but for it’s beauty, aesthetics and the pure exposure encountered high on it’s flanks. Most parties attempt the SW ridge, climbing expedition style, fixing ropes, ferrying loads, and acclimatizing slowly. The mountain has gained in popularity over the past 8 years. It’s common to encounter high altitude Everest veterans having problems with the technical difficulties encountered on the crux pitches of this climb.

From Steven Shrader: The climb feels like a 5.8 – 5.9 depending on conditions (Steve has summited 3 times guiding) but it’s really hard to say because I (Steve) have always worn plastic boots, and all the climbing is above 6000M. 

From Wikipedia:

Ama Dablam is a mountain in the Himalaya range of eastern Nepal. The main peak is 6,812 metres (22,349 ft), the lower western peak is 5,563 metres (18,251 ft). Ama Dablam means “Mother’s necklace”; the long ridges on each side like the arms of a mother (ama) protecting her child, and the hanging glacier thought of as the dablam, the traditional double-pendant containing pictures of the gods, worn by Sherpa women. For several days, Ama Dablam dominates the eastern sky for anyone trekking to Mount Everest basecamp.

 

Ama Dablam was first climbed on 13 March 1961 by Mike Gill (NZ),  Barry Bishop (USA), Mike Ward (UK) and Wally Romanes (NZ) via the Southwest Ridge. They were well-acclimatised to altitude, having wintered over at 5800 metres near the base of the peak as part of the Silver Hut Scientific Expedition of 1960-61, led by Sir Edmund Hillary.

 

 

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s