Archive for October, 2011

Equipment final check

Posted: October 30, 2011 in Uncategorized

This morning was spent sorting our equipment in Thamel and discussing our plan with Sherpa Pasang Lama. Pasang will be part of our team from here forward. Everything from ropes to batteries was checked and then packed ready for the approach to base camp. Between the eight of us, it is a colourful and weighty spread of mountain gear.

We have decided to pack sufficient equipment and food to enable a second climb, should time permit. Joe and James have gathered route and access information on the 6100m peak Lobuche, which we would like to attempt if the main ascent of Ama Dablam’s SW ridge goes swiftly.

We plan to use fixed ropes on some sections of the climb. Unlike our normal style of alpine climbing, making our way freely up the rock, snow and ice, fixed lines will involve large aluminium cams giving us grip on ropes as we move up the mountain. Another bit of kit to test and pack ready tied.

The remainder of this day will be spent meeting with the liaison officer and government officials who issue a permit for the mountain.  Photo of the officials, with Assaf on the right, wearing his newly adorned silk scarf.


International origins

Posted: October 29, 2011 in Uncategorized

(Andrew) I am reaching Kathmandu today via Bahrain. Each of the others is coming via a different routing. We are originating out of seven different countries, which is remarkable in itself considering the co-ordination of planning and packing that has gone on the past month. All the more importance to this expedition since we do not regularly see each other.

Last time I climbed with James it was adjacent the Matterhorn on the beautiful glaciated face of “L’Eveque”. This time last year we were in the Pamir of Tajikistan. Last climb with Sethh was in the Moroccan Atlas, also including James. With Fred it was in the Cordillera Blanca of Peru, with Assaf as well. In the spring Amy man-Joe and I were together in the Swiss alps, then in the summer Scotland.

Departure day

Posted: October 28, 2011 in Uncategorized
Ama Dablam climb - team member Andrew Stokes-Rees

Ama Dablam climb - team member Andrew Stokes-Rees

Expedition audio blog

Posted: October 27, 2011 in Uncategorized

Today Fred and James head to Kathmandu.  The rest of us will join them tomorrow.  The idea of this audio blog is for us, as a team, to make voice recordings on this blog site, each day of the expedition.

Initially we will be sorting porters, supplies and the final packing of equipment for the approach up to base camp.  Later on, we will be recording blogs from the climb itself, from the high camps and if we’re lucky, from the summit.

This blog is intended to be a means of communication with our friends and family, and if that includes you, we’d be glad if you checked on us every few days. Save the link, and we’ll speak again soon.

– Andrew

The site of the team rendezvous... Kathmandu, Nepal